Upstream or downstream is usually an easy choice for me. Downstream, as often as I can, because it just feels better going with the flow. But for these 14 kilometres of foot wide 'paths' up a constantly waterfalling river ultimately crashing down into Skógafoss, you couldn't beat going upstream. Not that we had a choice, beginning from the bottom of 377 stairs to get us above Skógafoss itself. If we had brought a tent, the wind wasn't bringing a wind chill of well below freezing, and we were here anytime outside of the middle of winter, we would have spent days up here, hiking and camping all the way to the glacier some ten kilometres further. But the wind beat us down, nightfall caught up with us all too quickly, again, and we retreated for another night soaking our bodies in an outdoor hot tub, all part of the best guesthouse in the world right below.